Since school days, I'd the wished do cycle trips. Though I'd practiced few short weekend rides, the desire to pedal to hometown was lingering in mind for last few years. With the beautiful western ghats, endless greenlands, picturesque mountains, roaring rivers, receding monsoon and awesome tarmac along the route seen while driving car made my desire stronger. So come September every year, the Ganesh Chaturthi festival is always a chance to travel and this year was no different. With a weekend before festival, the time was ripe for pursuing the ride, so I decided to ride from Hassan to Brahmavara a distance of ~220kms.
Stomach full of butterflies, left home at 8:15PM; just 2km into the commute, I hopped over an unscientific speed breaker along a service road and BOOM!!!. The headlamp's two parts fell apart; were all over the muddy road. My heart said, it's not happening this time, I stopped, picked up the things. While fixing back the batteries into the lamp with trembling hands, qlucckk, the lamp slipped and flew over a compound wall. I jumped the compound wall. Things went from bad to worse to nightmare soon. With pitch darkness inside the premises I had no way to locate the lamp. So jumped back to road, picked up tail lamp. Jumped wall 2nd time into the premises, then found the lamp's part.
Bus crawled out of majestic after 30mins struggle for each inch of space with other buses. Once it reached Nelamangala, I fell asleep for 2hrs and woke-up near CR Pattana; Bus entered Hassan bus stop by 3:15AM.
Hassan to Belur (38kms in 2h:30m, pre-dawn, dark):
As I continued to ascend and descend the roller coaster, anticipating the sun to rise but overcast sky didn't help. Stopped at a village to wear padded shorts and continued. Finally reached Belur at 6AM. Inquired for breakfast restaurant but they were not yet ready. So continued towards Chikkamagalur.
Belur to Chikkamagalur (24kms in 1h:50mins, dawn and morning): Resumed and stopped at couple of places for photographs and was enjoying the morning's freshness, warmth from strengthening sunlight, the smell of dew and the flying birds, At 6:30AM, finally saw sun was rising from right side behind my back (travelling to west from east). Not the best sunrise due to thick cloud cover. Still the weather was just perfect and traffic at minimum. Distance to CKM reduced to 9kms; my hunger level was rising with each approaching KM. At the entrance of the town, group of school kids waved at me. The first of many more to cheers to come. Found a restaurant and locked the cycle to a pole, ordered Lemon rice and vada. A retired lawyer was having coffee and inquired about me and my plans. He recalled his young days and said even he used to do trips around Ckm. Sipped cup of coffee with him and resumed at 8:30AM.
CKM - Vastare - Aldur (19Kms in 1h:30mins morning)
I exited the town amidst light drizzle and passed through a CCD at its hometown and Serai (a CCD resort) gate and reached Vastare village, 9Kms after CKM. This is a National Highway 173 stretch, which is narrow with heavy truck movement due to common connecting route for Mangalore-Udupi bound vehicles starting from south of AP state. Negotiated it with caution and took detour to Aldur. Next 9kms was climb with few small steep hill sections, first time I had to put the lower ring gear 1-X which gave gentle reminder of things to unfold. Continued enjoying the strong tree cover to reached Aldur village at 10AM.
Tarmac was butter smooth, soon I was coasting as fast as vehicles along this heavenly route. The road profile is spiral horizontally and rolling vertically, makes it unique riding experience. Unlike steep ghat stretch, not much effort required in applying breaks as turning and rolling regulates speed. First 10kms were free rolling like flying in space. Stopped for a photo break. Sipped a tender coconut to replenish the body salts lost due to sweating.
I stopped several places to enjoy the scenic landscape. The green farm lands, rivers, mountains, streams were eye candy. Light drizzle and bright sunshine alternating every KM made an awesome ride and worth all the effort. At noon, reached Balehonnur for lunch at Bhadra coffee shop. Grabbed some paddu, poha plate and lemon juice which was less than filling. Took a power nap on the bench for 1.5hrs and resumed at 2PM.
Balehonnur to Jayapura (17Kms in 1hr:15mins afternoon )
Realised too much time has passed and with little more than 3hrs of day light remaining, decided to halt at Agumbe and resume next day. The ultimate climb test was just waiting to unleash on me. Took the turn towards Sringeri reached the base of hill stretch. Bum sore affecting my posture, from here onward it was the mental side to endure the distance. After climbing 2kms by standing and sitting briefly, stopped and started walking first time in the day. After few mins of walk, hoped again and continued crawling up. Each meter was taking several heartbeats and no sign of the climb ending. I could only see buses climbing in 2nd or 1st gear then disappearing at far away turn. The stretch was ruthless with continuous elevation. Each passing KM brought some relief but opened up another way pointed northward. Met a man in motorcycle collecting plastic bottles, asked him how long is this climb?He said couple of KMs and then it will go down. Finally after nearly 60mins for 11kms of numerous cycles of pedal-n-walk, reached a village, entered a restaurant. He served two chapatis and beetroot palya. Resumed after 30mins meal break, the climb continued for 1 more KM then felt relieved to see downward road. Next 9kms were down, but tarmac was not best slowing my progress.
Sringeri to Agumbe (26Kms in 2hrs - dusk and darkness)
Reached Sringeri, took a walking break for 10mins. Sun was going down, so was the temperature. My body was ready to push now to cover another roller coaster to Agumbe. Turned on the lights and wore the reflective jacket. I could feel the body clock responding positively, instincts kick in. I was sprinting at some stretches like a school boy running home after school. With 10km to Agumbe it turned into pitch darkness, I was at the mercy of the head lamp, visibility limited to few meters. At one place the streetlights suddenly turned on felt like I'm in a dreamland!. Realized it was in the middle of a settlement. The sound of forest bees (zzzeeezzzee) was pushing me go faster. The last 2kms, I climbed in lowest gear to reach forest gate of Agumbe. It was a relief to see the village lights from distance.
Inquired about any lodge, a local guy suggested many cyclists visit Doddamane (the house in TV serial Malgudi Days) which was just few meters further. Entered the house built in typical early century style and asked if they can accommodate. On being a single occupant, the person allotted a room and said the common bathroom be used. Asserted that only veg food is served and no alcohol is allowed. I happily obliged. They were speak my mother tongue Konkani. Once I occupied the room, took a bath which wiped off the layer of salt. It was a superb feeling. Dinner was like a joint family sitting together and relishing the authentic konkani cuisines. Really sumptuous. Answered few questions on journey from other curious guests. Crashed to bed at 930pm and got up at 530AM. Sleep was a pure zen! Body had got reset except the skin of the ass. Quickly finished morning formalities and I was served hot steaming idly with Hindy (pickle with slicked baby mango and some authentic seeds from forests). Kashaya to sip and it was much needed refresher before I commence. During Malgudi days, they had given the house for shooting the episodes for free. Now property carries high nostalgic value to my generation. Their past and present generations (The Shenoys) have been living in that house for last 150 years. The matriarch of the family is Kasturi Ajji, she makes the guests feel at home.
Started from Doddamane and couple of KMs saw a snake sneaking in the forest bushes. Further 1km reached the start point of the Agumbe ghat. Met a group of boys from Kerala who happily accepted request to take my photograph. In return answered their questions on my trip so far. Found a group of monkeys curious on my arrival. A juvenile came close and keenly observed the cycle. Spent some 30 mins to enjoy the scenery from top of the ghat. The 8kms stretch has 14 hair pin bends. The top 3 to 4 are concertized, but very steep and narrow. Soon I commenced the descent sans pedaling. Traffic was light and roads were butter smooth with full tree cover. I took couple of breaking breaks to reduce wear and tear by continuous breaking. 30mins of leisurely descent and I was at Someshwara village, the base of the ghat.
Crossed Sitanadi and small forest stretch, saw a peacock roaming in a farm. Reached Hebri, the last town 30kms from home. It was painful to sit as the bum skin was burnt, was doing most of the ride standing. The roads were straight and roller coaster. With last 20kms I had tender coconut break and ate a pair of Banana. I crossed Pethri, Kunjalu settlements and the konkan railway bridge. Just waiting for the town to show up anytime now. Finally after 4hrs of ride, saw the first glimpse of my home town, the moment of touchdown finally arrived.
Cost Breakup:
Round Trip Bus Ticket: Rs. 1500 (Onward ticket if booked till Hassan saves about Rs.200)
Luggage Charges both sides and tips: Rs. 300
Preparation:
- Checked weather forecast along the Hassan, Chikkamagalur and Udupi region. Saw nothing alarming even though it was raining moderately during mid week.
- Couple of commute rides and a weekend ride of 70kms to affirm my and bike's fitness.
- Booked return tickets in KSRTC Volvo bus Airavat.
- Found few blogs on the protocol to load cycle in Volvo's luggage cabin.
The day finally arrived:
It was Bharath Bandh till 6PM and confirmed that bus will leave at 10:30PM. The anxiety was pulpable. Packed my bag with cycling essentials, padded shorts and minimum cloths for extended weekend.
Most important accessories being spare tube, toolkit, puncture kit, hand pump, lights with fully charged batteries, sipper, helmet, whistle, first-aid kit, windcheater and reflective vest and eye-glasses, cycle lock and a BSNL mobile phone. Most of these were loaded either on cycle or myself.
Did a test ride to ascertain everything was in order the way as expected to avoid nasty surprises, but shock was in store for me soon!
Home to Majestic Bus Stand:
Stomach full of butterflies, left home at 8:15PM; just 2km into the commute, I hopped over an unscientific speed breaker along a service road and BOOM!!!. The headlamp's two parts fell apart; were all over the muddy road. My heart said, it's not happening this time, I stopped, picked up the things. While fixing back the batteries into the lamp with trembling hands, qlucckk, the lamp slipped and flew over a compound wall. I jumped the compound wall. Things went from bad to worse to nightmare soon. With pitch darkness inside the premises I had no way to locate the lamp. So jumped back to road, picked up tail lamp. Jumped wall 2nd time into the premises, then found the lamp's part.
Reason it fell apart was a recently broken clip at one of the 4 sides. This problem had became a showstopper for the trip. Little further found a medical shop, bought couple of BandAids to seal the two sides of the assembly. It was better than nothing and hoped it will work. It did worked the next day!.
Being a bundle of nervous excitement, I resumed. The pulserate settled once I reached dairy circle. Beyond that such a pleasant ride it was. Being a Bandh day, all signals were yellow, roads were sans cars, cabs, honking and smoke. I reached majestic, a distance of 11kms in 40mins. Time 9PM.
Boarding@Majestic and Alighting@Hassan:
Walked into bus platform and waiting time started for me and the hundred of travelers.
Bus arrived at 10:30PM.
Bus arrived at 10:30PM.
Waited for all eager co-passengers to board. Gently walked to the conductor and requested to take the cycle in. After initial hesitation, he accepted and opened the luggage duct full of parcels. As people gathered to witness the scene, he made some space inside. I removed the front wheel and loaded the cycle in. Bike's in now and the Trip's ON!. (Till now I wasn't 100% sure)
Bus crawled out of majestic after 30mins struggle for each inch of space with other buses. Once it reached Nelamangala, I fell asleep for 2hrs and woke-up near CR Pattana; Bus entered Hassan bus stop by 3:15AM.
Conductor helped to unload the Cycle, wheel fixed back and she was ready to roll. The driver and conductor wished me good luck and drove away.
Bought a water bottle, sipped a cup of coffee, wore the windcheater and reflective vest, switched on lights I was ride ready to hop-onto the saddle.
Finally it was time to roll the legs, hear the heart beat, let lungs scream, ass burn, skin soak in sweat, all to let eyes drool in nature's beauty, unfolding and changing every moment.
Finally it was time to roll the legs, hear the heart beat, let lungs scream, ass burn, skin soak in sweat, all to let eyes drool in nature's beauty, unfolding and changing every moment.
Hassan to Belur (38kms in 2h:30m, pre-dawn, dark):
Started at 3:30AM, amidst very light drizzle which stopped inside 2kms. The villagers were already up, I could hear them speak even though it was dark. Stopped to remove the windcheater, saw a lone lady horse in search of grass. Once I was out of town, the darkness level varied it's intensity and my front lamp was showing me the way. Few cars and buses were moving. I was hearing the birds chirp, dogs howl, wind blowing, people speak and of course the approaching vehicles. I could see light rays raising in the horizon from vehicles. Those comming from back were showing me better view. Tarmac was fair and stretch is mostly sans steep curves and major climbs, I was warming up and maintaining a steady speed.
At one village, couple of dogs came running at me, Pulled the whistle over my neck, blew two long seetis and dogs ran away!.
Belur to Chikkamagalur (24kms in 1h:50mins, dawn and morning): Resumed and stopped at couple of places for photographs and was enjoying the morning's freshness, warmth from strengthening sunlight, the smell of dew and the flying birds, At 6:30AM, finally saw sun was rising from right side behind my back (travelling to west from east). Not the best sunrise due to thick cloud cover. Still the weather was just perfect and traffic at minimum. Distance to CKM reduced to 9kms; my hunger level was rising with each approaching KM. At the entrance of the town, group of school kids waved at me. The first of many more to cheers to come. Found a restaurant and locked the cycle to a pole, ordered Lemon rice and vada. A retired lawyer was having coffee and inquired about me and my plans. He recalled his young days and said even he used to do trips around Ckm. Sipped cup of coffee with him and resumed at 8:30AM.CKM - Vastare - Aldur (19Kms in 1h:30mins morning)
I exited the town amidst light drizzle and passed through a CCD at its hometown and Serai (a CCD resort) gate and reached Vastare village, 9Kms after CKM. This is a National Highway 173 stretch, which is narrow with heavy truck movement due to common connecting route for Mangalore-Udupi bound vehicles starting from south of AP state. Negotiated it with caution and took detour to Aldur. Next 9kms was climb with few small steep hill sections, first time I had to put the lower ring gear 1-X which gave gentle reminder of things to unfold. Continued enjoying the strong tree cover to reached Aldur village at 10AM.Checkpoint: Covered about 81Kms in 6.5hrs @ 12.5Kmph includes multiple photo breaks and breakfast.
Aldur to Balehonnur (31Kms in 2h:15mins morning to mid-day)
Road to Balehonnur is mostly downward, I was hoping to increase the average speed.
Tarmac was butter smooth, soon I was coasting as fast as vehicles along this heavenly route. The road profile is spiral horizontally and rolling vertically, makes it unique riding experience. Unlike steep ghat stretch, not much effort required in applying breaks as turning and rolling regulates speed. First 10kms were free rolling like flying in space. Stopped for a photo break. Sipped a tender coconut to replenish the body salts lost due to sweating.
Continued the jolly coasting for another ~5kms and then pedalling resumed. There was never such a free ride until Agumbe.
I stopped several places to enjoy the scenic landscape. The green farm lands, rivers, mountains, streams were eye candy. Light drizzle and bright sunshine alternating every KM made an awesome ride and worth all the effort. At noon, reached Balehonnur for lunch at Bhadra coffee shop. Grabbed some paddu, poha plate and lemon juice which was less than filling. Took a power nap on the bench for 1.5hrs and resumed at 2PM.
Balehonnur to Jayapura (17Kms in 1hr:15mins afternoon )
Body had cooled down by now, so progress was mostly in lower gears specially while climbing. Lack of practice rides showed its effect here as I was in no state to accelerate.
On reaching Jayapura a moderate drizzle started which forced me to takeout jacket but it stopped quickly. I din't wanted to ride with jacket, so put that back in losing time and momentum. Gulped a tender coconut, few bananas and continued.
Jayapura to Sringeri (21Kms in 2:30hrs including meal break - afternoon to dusk)
Sringeri to Agumbe (26Kms in 2hrs - dusk and darkness)
Reached Sringeri, took a walking break for 10mins. Sun was going down, so was the temperature. My body was ready to push now to cover another roller coaster to Agumbe. Turned on the lights and wore the reflective jacket. I could feel the body clock responding positively, instincts kick in. I was sprinting at some stretches like a school boy running home after school. With 10km to Agumbe it turned into pitch darkness, I was at the mercy of the head lamp, visibility limited to few meters. At one place the streetlights suddenly turned on felt like I'm in a dreamland!. Realized it was in the middle of a settlement. The sound of forest bees (zzzeeezzzee) was pushing me go faster. The last 2kms, I climbed in lowest gear to reach forest gate of Agumbe. It was a relief to see the village lights from distance.Day1 Checkpoint: Covered about 170Kms in 16hrs including multiple photo, food, nap, walking, phone breaks.
It was time for a stay break.
Dinner, Night Stay and Breakfast @ Agumbe:
Inquired about any lodge, a local guy suggested many cyclists visit Doddamane (the house in TV serial Malgudi Days) which was just few meters further. Entered the house built in typical early century style and asked if they can accommodate. On being a single occupant, the person allotted a room and said the common bathroom be used. Asserted that only veg food is served and no alcohol is allowed. I happily obliged. They were speak my mother tongue Konkani. Once I occupied the room, took a bath which wiped off the layer of salt. It was a superb feeling. Dinner was like a joint family sitting together and relishing the authentic konkani cuisines. Really sumptuous. Answered few questions on journey from other curious guests. Crashed to bed at 930pm and got up at 530AM. Sleep was a pure zen! Body had got reset except the skin of the ass. Quickly finished morning formalities and I was served hot steaming idly with Hindy (pickle with slicked baby mango and some authentic seeds from forests). Kashaya to sip and it was much needed refresher before I commence. During Malgudi days, they had given the house for shooting the episodes for free. Now property carries high nostalgic value to my generation. Their past and present generations (The Shenoys) have been living in that house for last 150 years. The matriarch of the family is Kasturi Ajji, she makes the guests feel at home.
Day2 Agumbe to Brahmavara:
Descending the Agumbe ghat (8Kms in 30mins with many breaks - morning):
Started from Doddamane and couple of KMs saw a snake sneaking in the forest bushes. Further 1km reached the start point of the Agumbe ghat. Met a group of boys from Kerala who happily accepted request to take my photograph. In return answered their questions on my trip so far. Found a group of monkeys curious on my arrival. A juvenile came close and keenly observed the cycle. Spent some 30 mins to enjoy the scenery from top of the ghat. The 8kms stretch has 14 hair pin bends. The top 3 to 4 are concertized, but very steep and narrow. Soon I commenced the descent sans pedaling. Traffic was light and roads were butter smooth with full tree cover. I took couple of breaking breaks to reduce wear and tear by continuous breaking. 30mins of leisurely descent and I was at Someshwara village, the base of the ghat. 
Someshwara to Brahmavara (42Kms in 3hrs morning to noon):
Crossed Sitanadi and small forest stretch, saw a peacock roaming in a farm. Reached Hebri, the last town 30kms from home. It was painful to sit as the bum skin was burnt, was doing most of the ride standing. The roads were straight and roller coaster. With last 20kms I had tender coconut break and ate a pair of Banana. I crossed Pethri, Kunjalu settlements and the konkan railway bridge. Just waiting for the town to show up anytime now. Finally after 4hrs of ride, saw the first glimpse of my home town, the moment of touchdown finally arrived. 
Pushed the last few pedals and reached home. My uncle and parents couldn't believe, I had traveled on a bicycle.
Day2: 50Kms covered in 4hrs
Total 220Kms covered in 20hrs spread over two days. Not the best of the speed, but a journey full of memories for a life time.
Cost Breakup:
Luggage Charges both sides and tips: Rs. 300
Food and Snacks (on the go): Rs. 300 (Breakfast, Lunch, Meal, Tender Coconuts, Banana and Coffee)
Overnight Stay, Dinner, Breakfast: Rs. 500 (as per our wish)
Total: Rs. 2600 /-
Time Split:
Food breaks: 2 hours
Nap: 1hr
Photo Breaks: 1 hr
Total Ride Time: 16hrs
Overnight Stay: 12hrs
Time Split:
Food breaks: 2 hours
Nap: 1hr
Photo Breaks: 1 hr
Total Ride Time: 16hrs
Overnight Stay: 12hrs
